Wednesday, July 19, 2006

Halebidu

We had stayed in Hassan the night before after visiting Melkote.

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Hassan is quite a busy town, mostly made of ppl staying over before moving on to Halebidu and Belur, so the city is dotted with hotels. We stayed at a place right in the centre of town nest to a shopping complex, the next day we actually met a few of the hotel residents we'd seen at the restaurant at Halebid.

Anyway we were quite blown by the size of the food that turned up at our table which was as tasty. The drive to Halebidu is quite refreshing as most of Karnataka was.

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There was one thing I noticed on this part of Karnataka. You would see small ancient abandoned sathrams (halls) enroute the temple routes, something you only see in certain parts of the country (I've seen some in Tamilnadu and now here in this half of karnataka).

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I think it comes from the Kings initiative to provide shelter for its citizens. Which is really nice to note.
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I already told you about the Jain temple we stopped at first before Halebid.
Http://visithra.blogspot.com/2006/06/concave-pillars.html

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Looking for info on Halebidu I found this link with info on the jain temple.
Http://www.jainheritagecentres.com/karnataka/halebidu.htm

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When you first reach Halebidu you notice rows of people selling stone sculptures, some granite some in plaster/cement like structure. I made a note of going there later as I have a thing for sculptures especially ganesh ji's.
Http://halebid.en.infoax.org/

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Be prepared to be hounded by overzealous kids and salesperson trying to sell you Halebidu, but as they remain only outside the gates don't worry its just for awhile.

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You might want to get one of those books on Hoysala architecture if you're like me who needs to know about a place I visit. Its quite interesting.

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So after all that buzz you see the temple and you're blown away by its size but not its shape if you've been to Somnathpur first. Its set in this beautiful garden another great thing about the Karnataka government.

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Most temple and monument grounds are so well kept, beautiful gardens, flowering trees and people who are constantly maintaining the place. Its also very clean inside, so will someone please send a memo to TN please!

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There are 2 huge elaborately decorated dwaraka palakas guarding the front entrance. Right above you'll find an elaborately carved story of the deity. If you look closer at the walls nearby you will see these Nartana ganapathy.
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A very beautiful piece. But you'll have to look closely and twist yourself ;) Everyone you go, you have to look at every direction as there's something hidden somewhere.

Http://halebid.en.infoax.org/en/Belur%2C+Karnataka

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The round slabs in the centre of the temples are popular sitting spots as they are extremely cooling. Despite the blazing hot weather outside the place was still chilly inside, naturally. You can hire guides if you want to but get the book instead then you'll be able to read it again as there's so much information.

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This temple is made of a long pillared hall with 2 main altars both dedicated to shiva and each facing an outside mandapam where 2 huge nandi's sit.

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Don't head out yet, look up and you'll find exquisite carvings on the corners and ceilings. Did find a scary discovery on one of my ceiling photos.
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It was full of huge leggy spiders! What I'm not sure is did I magnify that particular ceiling carving or that was the original size. All i know is it was icky to think one could have fallen on me! ;(
You get outside to find the beautifully adorned walls.

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"The exteriors of these temples are beautiful, decorated with panels of warriors, dancers, horses, elephants, mythical creatures.

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There are beautiful apsaras, and there are several sculptures of hindu deities, and scenes from Mahabharat, Ramayan and Bhagavat Gita. The sculptures here are larger than the ones you will find at Belur, and are carved on both sides of the stone.

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Historians find a tradition that the ancient and medieval Indian artists rarely sign their work of art. However, the Hoysala sculptors have broken this custom and signed their sculptures. They engraved their names, titles and even the place of their origin at the foot of their art work.
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The stone inscriptions and copper plates of the period give some more details about these artisans. Mallitamma was the most prolific of all known Hoysala artists and more than forty well-executed sculptures stand in his name.

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Dasoja and his son Javana were migrants of a nearby town called Ballegavi. Javana is credited for the sculptures of five madanakai damsels and his father is credited for another four. Malliyanna and Nagoja have included birds and animals in their sculptures. The sculptures located in the navaranga were carved out by Chikkahampa and Malloja.
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It is a great pity that no biographical details about these artisans are available. What these sculptures brought them in return to their hard and extremely pain-taking work must have been a pittance!

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However, even after a lapse of eight centuries, the art lovers of the whole world can adore them."
Http://www.art-and-archaeology.com/india/halebid/hal01.html

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There are a few different carvings here. You'll find a few of vishnu's avathars here, plus some interesting devi sculptures. If you look closely at each slab you'll find a few stories carved into one.

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The nandis are really beautiful. They have been placed in nandi mandaps that are also raised so as to be on the same level of the main temples.

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The beautiful doorways and play of lights are a wonderful way to spend the morning.

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One of the best things to do is to sit and relax in one of the nandi mandaps and watch as curious people walk by. You'll enjoy the breeze and the surroundings and yet be cooled by the stones natural cooling quality.

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At the back of the temple at a short distance you'll find a lake or pond. We didn't check it out as we had to leave plus there was the heat. Still the greenish surroundings and its brown works of art stands out in the minds eye.

20 comments:

Maran said...

Boy! You took a lot of photos! :) Well maintained the place.

Harsha said...

Nice post. Came here thro Smiling Girl's blog. Loved the pics. Should go there soon. Looks like a nice get away and its pretty close from Blore as well.

sreekrishnanv said...
This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
Karthik B.S. said...

Hello visithra!

I have visited ur blog some 8 to 10 months ago thro Praveen's blog.

At that time u blogged about ATA right? And also cutie pie! (in a temple in malaysia)

Nice to see ur blog again!

Ariel said...

damn gorgeoush, babe!

kg said...

The carvings on the temple walls are seriously intricate la wei. I wonder how long it wouldve taken to produce one of those pieces.

and as always, the photos are marvellous.

hey so this weekend ke our photo shoot?

How's Friday, Chinese Temple.

Gladtomeetin said...

Wow.....The Ancient Art is really beautiful... Yenna Setukal...Yenna perfections.....Beautiful :-))

Keshi said...

a pic of nandi? wow!

Keshi.

My days(Gops) said...

raaajadhi raja, raja maardhanda.
sare vudunga...
idha ellam paarkum bodhu namma ancient "indian engineers" endha university'la degree mudichaanganu theriala....wondering wondering
chance'ey illa...

nice photos and write up...

btw, unmai'a sollunga...enga ponalum unnaala thaaan late'aagudhu (avlo photo edukureengaley?) unga amma solli irrukanumey?

visithra said...

Maran : oh yeah a lot ;p altogether i took over 1000 photos ;) yeah the gardens are wonderful


harsha : welcoem here ;)

thanks ;) yeah its a nice place - n for aweekend just nice - u could check out belur n halebidu


Karthik : well ill still welcome you again ;)

ata was quite sometime back ;) cutie pie ah yes she was new ;)


Ariel : time to go time to go - see im a devil ;o ;p hehehe thanks ;)


Kg : yeah tell me about it - so beautiful ;) years actually

thanks - again sorry da - i seem to have something up every week - n things i cant say no too - i think 1st week of aug - ill update u ok - sorry dear



Glad : yeah so beautiful - n its still around for us to see


Keshi : yeah - thanks ;)


Mydays : nengeh imsai rombeh parthutingeh pohla iruhke

exactly - chance'ey illa...

Thanks ;) cheh engeh amma intha late agudhunu sohlave mathange - coz avangaluku late ahna pudhikum ;p kovil leh ukaralamehnuthan ;p

Jeevan said...

That nandhi remember the Mysore Hills nandhi. It’s a sculptures special’a, beautiful snaps nice writing

WA said...

Been there years ago, beautiful Nandi

sathish said...

that is a great photo..

visithra said...

Jeevan : i didnt get to see the mysore one - we went at night - but i heard thats gorgeous too ;) - thanks dear ;)


wa : yeah its a beautiful one


Sathish : welcome here ;)

thanks ;)

sathish said...

visithra, enjoy ur blog.. and thanks for the link to our blog.

visithra said...

sathish : thanks - chechout urs especially like ur kids blog ;)

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